Dr. Nicole Stevens, Vice President of Clinical Research at doTERRA
Several essential oils have been studied for their relevance to skin appearance in those with shiny, oily complexions. Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) has been the subject of the most clinical research, with multiple trials examining its effects on skin clarity. Frankincense (Boswellia carterii ) and Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) have also been examined in peer-reviewed literature for their chemical constituents and potential skin-supportive properties. Each oil contains distinct compounds, such as terpinen-4-ol in tea tree, linalool in lavender, and alpha-pinene in frankincense, that researchers have studied for their effects on skin appearance and complexion balance.
Understanding what the published research actually shows, and where gaps remain, can help consumers make informed decisions about incorporating essential oils into their skincare routines.
Tea tree oil has accumulated more clinical evidence than any other essential oil for clear skin. Multiple randomized controlled trials have examined its effects.
A 1990 study published in the Medical Journal of Australia compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% conventional skin care lotion in 124 participants. Researchers found both treatments significantly improved the appearance of skin imperfections, though tea tree oil had a slower onset of action. Notably, fewer participants experienced adverse events with tea tree oil (44%) compared to the lotion (79%).
A 2007 randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study published in the Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology examined 60 participants and found that 5% tea tree oil gel was 3.55 times more effective than placebo in improving skin appearance.
More recently, a 2016 phase II pilot study published in the Australasian Journal of Dermatology followed 14 participants who applied tea tree oil products twice daily for 12 weeks. At 12 weeks, the skin appeared clearer.
Tea tree oil contains approximately 100 components, with terpinen-4-ol comprising roughly 40% of the oil. A 2023 review in Antioxidants concluded that tea tree oil demonstrates beneficial properties that may contribute to its observed effects on skin.
Frankincense essential oil, derived from the resin of Boswellia trees, has been used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese practices for centuries. Modern scientific investigation has begun to examine the chemical basis for these traditional applications.
Frankincense contains a complex mixture of more than 200 different chemical compounds, including monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, and rare diterpenes. Alpha-pinene, one of the primary constituents of frankincense essential oil, has been examined in laboratory studies for its properties.
A 2022 systematic review noted that frankincense compounds act through multiple mechanisms. Clinical trials cited in this review demonstrated the efficacy of frankincense compounds in sub-optimal skin.
doTERRA Frankincense essential oil is steam-distilled from the resin of four Boswellia species—carterii, frereana, sacra, and papyrifera, and undergoes CPTG Certified Pure Tested Grade® testing protocols. When diluted with a carrier oil and applied topically, Frankincense may help promote the appearance of healthy-looking skin.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil has been examined for its calming characteristics in laboratory and animal studies.
A 2021 study published in BMC Complementary Medicine and Therapies investigated lavender essential oil's effects on calming skin. Researchers found that lavender oil and its primary constituent, linalool, successfully comforted and helped soothe stressed skin.
Laboratory research has also demonstrated skin-soothing activity. A 2019 study published in Molecules found that lavender essential oil showed activity supporting skin’s natural balance, with effectiveness attributed to its linalool and linalyl acetate content.
A systematic review published in Frontiers in Pharmacology in 2023 examined lavender's effectiveness in skincare.
Lavender essential oil is generally considered gentle for topical use and can be diluted to minimize skin sensitivity. Its calming aroma makes it a common choice in skincare formulations.
Essential oils are most effective and appropriate for topical use when properly diluted. In Medicinal Essential Oils, Dr. Scott A. Johnson emphasizes dilution as a best practice that supports both efficacy and safety. Diluting essential oils in a carrier oil helps optimize absorption, extend skin contact time, and promote consistent application. This approach reflects an evidence-based framework that recognizes essential oils as highly concentrated substances best used thoughtfully and in appropriate proportions.
For facial applications, lower dilutions are preferred due to the delicate nature of facial skin. A common guideline is 1–2 drops of essential oil per 10 mL of carrier oil. For general topical use on the body, dilution ratios can be higher depending on the intended purpose. The certification manual suggests 8–20 drops per 10 mL for general use, and 6–10 drops per 10 mL for massage applications. Stronger dilutions (15–50 drops per 10 mL) may be used for targeted body comfort when appropriate. As a practical reference point, a 1% dilution is approximately 6 drops of essential oil per 30 mL (1 ounce) of carrier oil.
Suitable carrier oils for diluting essential oils include:
Before applying any essential oil blend to the face, conduct a patch test:
Certain populations require additional care when using essential oils topically:
Tea tree oil has accumulated the most clinical evidence for oily skin. Multiple randomized controlled trials have demonstrated its ability to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections when applied as a 5% topical gel. Frankincense and lavender essential oils have also been studied for their skin-supportive properties, though clinical trial data specific to certain complexions is more limited for these oils.
Essential oils are highly concentrated and evaporate quickly when applied on their own. Diluting them with a carrier oil—such as fractionated coconut oil or castor oil—helps slow evaporation so the oil stays on the skin longer. This allows the skin more time to absorb the oil and can enhance its overall effectiveness. Carrier oils also help spread essential oils more evenly over a larger surface area, supporting consistent absorption. For these reasons, dilution is often recommended to optimize performance and value. While a few oils, such as lavender and tea tree, are sometimes applied undiluted in small amounts, many people still prefer dilution to improve how the oil performs on the skin, and reduce the risk of irritation and sensitization.
For facial applications, use approximately 3-6 drops of essential oil per tablespoon (15 mL) of carrier oil, which yields approximately a 1-2% dilution. Fractionated coconut oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil are common carrier oil choices for facial use.
Individuals with sensitive skin should exercise additional caution. Start with lower dilutions (0.5%), always perform a patch test before applying to the face, and choose essential oils known for gentleness, such as lavender or frankincense. Discontinue use immediately if irritation occurs.
Clinical trials examining tea tree oil found that results became apparent over 4-12 weeks of consistent use. The 1990 comparative study noted that tea tree oil had a slower onset of action compared to the conventional skin care lotion, suggesting patience is required when incorporating essential oils into a skincare routine.
Essential oils should not replace treatments recommended by a dermatologist or other healthcare provider. For persistent or severe skin concerns, consultation with a qualified healthcare professional is recommended. Essential oils may serve as a complementary approach when used appropriately. If you’re under the care of a doctor, always discuss complementary therapies (like essential oil use) before beginning.
Published research suggests that certain essential oils, particularly tea tree, frankincense, and lavender, contain chemical constituents with properties relevant to benefiting the skin. Tea tree oil has the most robust clinical evidence, with multiple randomized trials demonstrating its ability to reduce occasional skin imperfections. Frankincense offers documented soothing through its alpha-pinene content, while lavender has demonstrated cleansing and calming effects in laboratory studies.
For those interested in incorporating essential oils into their skincare routine, visit www.doterra.com to see the full offering of CPTG Certified Pure Tested Grade products.
About Dr. Nicole Stevens
Dr. Nicole Stevens serves as Vice President of Clinical Research at doTERRA, where she leads scientific investigations into essential oil properties and applications. With over 25 years of experience in essential oil research, Dr. Stevens has worked in quality control laboratories in the nutraceutical industry and academic research laboratories at the University of Utah and the University of Nevada, Las Vegas (UNLV) Cancer Research Institute. Dr. Stevens earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in technical writing and a Master of Science in botany, both from Brigham Young University, and a second Master of Science in public health from Purdue University. She completed her doctorate in biochemistry and molecular biology from the University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, investigating essential oil metabolomics and mechanisms of action.
